New Website!

We've moved! Maybe we're getting too big for our britches, but we've decided it was about time to leave blogspot.com behind. We're now at
http://pimpinandcrimpin.com

Hopefully, we'll be able to do a lot of cool shit with our new found freedom. Of course, that's what I said when I moved out of my parents house and all I did was get drunk and watch porn at 9am. So don't hold your breath.

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Numb3rs

I've never watched the show Numb3rs ever. I think it's about math. Math and crime fighting. Seems boring to me but whatever. This new episode of it though is called High Exposure. I've been watching it. It's all about climbing. Something about climbing and diamonds and math and crime fighting. I'm through the first five minutes and aside from the awesome Camel back he's wearing it seems accurate (you know 1 climber, 1 belayer. None of that magical we're climbing next to each other on top rope with no belayer shit like in Mr. and Mrs. Smith) OH! and they even use a song in the first scene from the Dosage 3 soundtrack if my ears and memory aren't deceiving me. Anyway check it out here.
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P&Cer Update!

The four incredibly talented and sexy contributors here at P&C don't typically boast about our own climbing achievements, however, I can't pass up the opportunity to relay to our readers that our one and only Limit has been CRUSHING! The kid is unstoppable right now, dispensing with projects at will. In the past two weeks our little Great White has concluded an epic journey with the classic CCC testpiece, Stuffed Wolf (13b), cruised River Run (13b), manhandled Hand Me the Cantina Boy (12d/13a), The Gauntlet (12d), flashed Pinche Guey (12c), and who knows how many lowly 12s. Call the Photographers, Limit is going to the Crag!
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Timmy O'Neill: The Interview

C-Note got to sit down and take a few photos with Timmy a while ago and I had the pleasure of doing a "fucking extemporaneous IM interview"(as he so eloquently put it) with him not too long after. Click through for the goods.
You're a fairly prominent figure in the climbing community. People know Timmy. We see you in Patagonia ads and Peter Mortimer films and we all think you're great, but I have no idea what you actually do. What do you actually do?
I wake up each day, scrub my teeth with nylon bristles, pull pants over my legs, a shirt over my torso and slip my feet into sandals, then I drink coffee.
That sounds like the best deal ever.
After that it really depends but that is the most routine that my day is, any day that I have.
It seems you have plenty of time to climb though, which I suppose is an important thing, if not THE important thing.
What I do is interact with humanity through myriad forms of communication both real/in-person and virtual. It's climber/kayaker/mountain biker, meets life-coach, plays mad rock and roll drums, and changes lives through climbing.
Where have you been in the last 6 months?
Cusco, Peru - April 11th until April 25th
Hike the Inca trail with my brother Tommy and my Dad.


Koraro, Ethiopia - April 28th until May 18th
Work with ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin as part of the Millennium Village Project.


Silverton, Colorado - May 20th until June 4th
Play music with my band The Dust Storm incl. a show in Durango, Colorado.


Vail, Colorado - June 4th until June 8th
Emcee at the Teva Mountain Games, and play drums with the Dust Storm.


Scotland June -15th - June 28th
Sail in the North Sea on the Ezra, a 44ft cutter
Climb the Old Man of Hoy

New Zealand - July 1st until July 25th
Perform at the New Zealand Mountain Film Festival

Telluride, Colorado - August 1st - August 3rd
Attend the Chuck Kroger memorial festival and play live rock and roll.


Salt Lake City, Utah - August 8th – August 11th
Outdoor Retailer Summer Market

Holy shit.
In February I was in southern Chile in the Patagonia region climbing with Yvonne Chounaird and others and making a film. I am off to the Valley to climb for the next 5-weeks.
That's amazing.
I am planning on climbing with my brother Sean, a T-12 paraplegic, up the NOSE on El Capitan in a hopefully sub-24-hour ascent for the first one-day ascent of El cap by a paraplegic then I climb El Cap with another brother Tommy - the Shield in 3-days and 2-nights
That's crazy
I also am bringing up ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin, who I helped cure blindness in Ethiopia this summer.
So you have a busy schedule.
We are doing the West Face (24-pitches w some 5.11 amd a lot of 5.10. It will be the biggest climb he has ever done. I am going back to Africa with him. After the Valley I will be there until October 20th. I head south on Oct. 23rd for a week in Mexico City, Mexico where I speak at a mountain film festival and climb. Then Nov. 3rd up to Banff Mountain Film Festival for a week in Alberta to do a series of 20-podcast/videocast interviews and a slew of emcee work for the BEST mountain film festival on the planet.
I can't imagine having that busy of a schedule.
How do you feel about the direction of climbing? Do you feel it's headed in a good direction? Are we raising young climbers to be a new generation of environmentally conscious rock jocks? Do you think the climbing community as a whole is doing loads of good?
Climbing is one of the many activities that I participate in, and that goes for the vast majority of those that call themselves climbers, either inside or outside. The direction of climbing has always been up, literally, as we ascend the boulder or wall and metaphorically as our numbers in the community rise and our awareness of the limited resources and our need to be proactive stewards regarding access and care. Climbing is one of my interests and it is a personal and obscure venture that serves my needs to commune with mama nature and challenge myself physically and mentally in a non-conventional manner. "Never doubt that a small, group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has." -Margaret Mead. There are a few people in the climbing community trying to make change. The rest are simply enjoying the activity and that is a very worthwhile and valuable thing.
Did you and Caroline come up with any compelling meaning in your discussion of the value of honesty in lust and love?
No.
But we really enjoyed the attempts. That is the important thing to remember; the trying is where it is. The unknown, will you make it OR not. In other words - being real with yourself and your motivations is paramount to being the same with others as well as the external representations of you i.e. your climbing project, art concept, music arrangements, job, relationships with family and friends. To bring or providing the same to others.
You have a reputation for being crazy Timmy, from panties on the summit to Paris Hilton sex tapes to every single thing I've seen you emcee but talking with you now I don't get that at all. Where's that come out? Is it just morning time?
It is me morning day and night - I am serious about being funny and over-the-top and also very serious about connecting with humanity in a substantial way that feeds my desire to help people. I love making people laugh with as much gusto as I enjoy making them feel better about a difficult period in their life be it the loss of a loved one, the loss of the leg, or the loss of their self respect. I am a serious student of life, love, laughter and living in the moment. "Live life as if you will die tomorrow and learn as if you will live forever." -Mahatma Ghandi. I am a very public person and lend my wit and charisma to many projects i.e. films, emcee, IM interviews but some of my favorite is bringing an ailing person (whatever the ailment is) further back to health.
Is that the part of people that's giving you this passion for humanity. Giving them something back? Bringing them up ultimately, bottom line: helping.
I am one of 7 kids and we are close and in my neighborhood we were 21 kids in a row in three houses. I am swarmed with people, need them around me, gravitate to them like the earth to sun, I interact instantly and deeply with others in order to nourish my need for truth and understanding and empathy and compassion. The other side of the sword is that nothing is sacred, sacrosanct is nonsense for me, for others sorry if I step on your blessed toes or trample on your sense of decorum, decency. I am a churl in humor and a paragon in humanity - that is the irony is that I find the humor in the hurt and expose it. I was just back in Philly visiting my family and it felt as if I was bring drawn and quartered with love, pulled by myriad arms and needs and directions.
You seem like a man with more love to give than anything. Do you find yourself able to commit yourself personally to others regularly? With your schedule and your compassion. Is it hard for SO's to understand why you do what you do?
Had a serious SO for a number of years and now I am single, so I have the opportunity to experience different women, not necessarily as a player or anything, other than just being open. I travel and sometimes I meet someone I connect with, I am not looking for an SO but she is out there, perhaps reading these words, lurking at the coffee shop, attending the next performance of my band, who knows - life is short and I love love.
What's the most important thing in life? In one sentence
The most important thing in life is yourself, your own health and state of mind; you are your own temple, and charity starts at home baby - give to yourself first so you can give to others. See ya.


(All photos by Caroline Treadway)









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Overheard

The occasion: My buddy Derek is working a piss hard (for us) route and crimping the shit out of some heinous micro holds.

Unkown Chossmonger (pointing at Derek's project): have you ever been on that before?

Me: once or twice.

Chossmonger: are those holds really small, or does he just like making a fist when he crimps to get more pumped?

Me: what??

Chossmonger's friend: what the fuck are you talking about?

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Innocent Cyclist Maims Goose

At approximately 1:18 this afternoon, I hit a Canadian Goose with my bike. Moments before the accident, I stood inside Boston University's rec center, assessing the ride home. I impatiently set out into the gray, persistent rain having decided this little squall was no match for me and my bike—aka soon-to-be-weapon-of-mini-destruction. Within seconds I was soaked. Streets morphed into tidal waterways and rising water obscured large potholes. Slogging along the warped bikepath by the Charles, I decided to pass a painfully slow fellow commuter. Congregating geese parted to form a perfectly clear passing lane and I took it. I stepped on my pedals just as the unsuspecting victim waddled out. The goose squealed and I cleared the handlebars.

I stood up and stared as the squawking mob surrounded my bike and the goose untangled its long neck from my spokes. Cars sprayed hosefuls of water on us as they passed. The geese glared and I glared back. The New Yorker in me couldn't help but think,"Stupid goose! Who the hell steps in front of a bike?!" I watched my victim limp off, wincing when its webbed foot touched the broken asphalt. Frustration instantly melted into "Stupid human!"

On the way home, I soothed my soggy ego with Dunkin' Donuts—New England's claim to fried sugar fame. But the doughy innertubes didn't make me feel better about anything, except Boston's recent trans-fat ban, which has actually resulted in less tasty fare. By the time I got home to examine my bent, feathered bike, the rain had stopped. I guess timing really is everything. 

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Out of context

Heard this today:

"Thinking of climbers like gay men really helps me understand"
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Speaking of Chris

A friend just showed me this video. Chris super Sharma doing a little top roping for NPR it's pretty amazing...

click the photo or hit more for the vid.
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Sharmaster is a lizard king

It would seem Super Sharma didn't want to rest at all after sending his Clark Mountain project Jumbo Love (5.15b). He decided to run on over to Maple Canyon and onsight some classics in the Pipe Dream cave. When I say classics I mean ridiculously hard climbs including a 13c, 13d/14a, 14a/b, and a 14b. Not only that but it's in Maple where onsights are not so easy because of the gnarly cobbles and ridiculous beta.

Check the whole story on climbing.com
Photo courtesy of climbing.com
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24HCR (AGAIN.) and free shit!

So it's no secret that P&Cers are completely irresponsible and completely juvenile so when we teamed up with our new comrades from Patagonia for the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell competition things are no different. We knew the comp wasn't for another few days but sometimes you have to man up and start the party early. Sometimes that involves publicly embarrassing fellow contributor bronco with pictures his mother will never be proud of. Click through for shenanigans or don't but it will be your loss.

On another note, if you aren't coming to Arkansas for the festivities shame on you. The P&C party is going to be beyond excellent and the comp the following morning should be ripe with hangovers. In the event that you don't make it be sure to belly up to a bar somewhere and have a shot of whiskey Friday. If you do make sure and take a good picture. The top three best looking pictures including debauchery and over consumption will win P&C shot glasses. So get after it! Drink hard and climb harder! (oh and don't forget the excellent pictures after the jump)




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Newbie: Beta

Here's another Newbie comic from John P. Hope you like it, there's even a special guest!







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Drink More Whiskey

...because the west wasn't won on craft beer.

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Whiskey Wednesday

Rock Climbers are blowing up right now! This Whiskey Wednesday is a general salute to everyone out there pushing your limits whether it's 5.9 or 5.14+. If you haven't heard about the Jumbo Love (5.15b) going down, then you have been living in a hole! However, check the jump for even more rad sends... If you've been to Rifle in the past couple months, chances are you've seen the Bauhaus posse. Dave Graham, Joe Kinder, and Daniel Woods have been kicking it in RMP and crushing. All three have now redpointed Girl Talk (14c) which could be Rifle's hardest route. Dave and Joe set their sites on Kryptonite out at the Fortress. To date, Dave has sent and Joe is said to be close. You can check the progress on joekindkid.com, Good Luck! What else? Crazy town Cobra Crack sees three repeats by Ethan Pringle, Nicolas Favresse, and Matt Segal! Oh, Sharma decides to go out and repeat Kinder's Golden Direct (5.14d).


Blah Blah... This is sounding too easy for these guys. Damn, seeing this shit go down gets me psyched, especially since I just put my draws on a new project! Ladies and Gentlemen, raise your Whiskey glasses to those pushing it, if that's you, then treat yourself to a sourmash beverage and say "Damn, I am awesome!" Happy Wednesday folks!.

Photo: climbing.com joe Kinder on Golden Direct (5.14d)
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Back to the Future

You've got to love 80's climbing footage. Scope Kristen Drumheller's glasses!.


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Sharma Sends Clark Mountain Super Proj

I've called a lot of things futuristic in my time-usually a move on my friends woody that I can barely stick. Or a 5.5 chosspile I screamed my way up while soloing in flip flops. Most things I've called "futuristic" are in fact, damn near prehistoric. I always choose choose irony over good diction.

Today, that changes.

If you saw King Lines, your jaw was probably sitting in your lap when you saw Sharma's super project at Clark Mountain. The fucker is 240 feet long and unbelievably steep. It has essentially zero rests. Working it results in repeated 60 foot whippers-longer than most routes I've done. Well, Sharma sent the thing Thursday.

VIDEO REMOVED FROM YOUTUBE. SORRY YA'LL. (go buy King Line's it's definitely worth it. KICK ASS MOVIE)


Now that, my friends, is Futuristic.
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