Sunday, April 27, 2008

Up the Poudre

Beware, Adam can wield a drill at the crag and he is PSYCHED!!! Monitor your local crag with vigilance or I may sneak in and retro bolt your area runout classic, squeeze a route like the thighmaster, or couple bolts and cracks like Sonny and Cher. My last trace of ethical pride has been eradicated by my newly acquired dark art and I am laughing a very evil laugh. Buhahahahaha!!!

No really, I have wanted to pound a bolt or two up a new route for some time now and today I got the chance. The route, yet to be named, is steep and thin at the bottom and pumpy, but pretty damn beautiful. So psyched to work this project in the coming months, and work it will be. I think the thing could be hard, real hard, but with enough effort it should go fairly quick, I hope! So, with that, I am opening up the P&C portal to name suggestions. Either comment them on this post or email them to us at pimpinandcrimpin@gmail.com.

On another note, the rest of the day was pretty pimp as well. Derek put me on one of his masterpiece multipitch gems at the Crystal Wall, Tour de Poudre 12b. SICK!!! This route was legit, the first pitch was steep and juggey clocking in at 10a, great fun. Then the biz came on the second pitch with sequential climbing on small crimps, whoohooo! After a small break he ushered me over to a harder route, but just as good, Orange Crimpsycle (sp?), 13a. OC ascends this brilliant orange lichen face on small crimps, think credit cards mating with razorblades on straight up vertical granite. Despite being overserved last night I was feeling surprisingly good today. I launched into the first crux and somehow pulled it off and found myself resting 3 bolts below the anchor. You could say that I was pretty psyched and thought I may have had a good chance for the onsight. Little did I know that was about to embark on another crux section just above, I fell. Sigh. However, I didn't get the onsight, but I was super excited about the route and can't wait to venture back up there and try her again. If any of you have by passed the sport climbing on the Crystal Wall and at the Palace while on your way to the 420's, then you have missed out on some exceptional routes. Get out there and climb'em!!!

4 comments:

Maury said...

You know, if the route ends up being beyond your ability level, you can also use that drill to add a few extra pockets. A whole new world of possibilities!

Andrew said...

route suggestions:
Nut Jive
Spoontastic
Samwisegambgee
I am Spoon
Gerts and Gin
Pimpin and Scimpin
Eat One
I Barfed In Hueco Once

Terry said...

hey adam, whats up. it sounds like you are having super fun. i have been doing the same thing too...i'm going on like 4 weekends in a row! just crankin and boltin.
i'm guessing that this crag you are are talking about is in colorado? loran and i are coming up to lumpy on the weekend of june 14, maybe we could hook up?
terry
ps...don't listen to maury..

Bronco said...

Terry! Good to hear from you! Yeah, let me know for sure when you guys are going to be here and we will have to get together. You can email me at the pimpinandcrimpin@gmail.com address. Oh, and don't worry, no one ever listens to Maury anyway.